Saturday, February 21, 2009

ALTA MONTAÑAS

Here we are again back in Argentina. We came through the Andes tunnel on the night bus, Thursday night. This was a mistake from the point of view of missing the views, but compensated for by a stunning night sky, with the biggest stars I´ve ever seen, falling like jewels down from on high to disappear behind the black mountain outlines. Then we had to spend hours going through the border controls inside a huge shed. We reached our hotel in Mendoza somewhat the worse for wear and were immediately confronted with a choice of tours by the receptionist. We had talked about what to see before, so went along with doing one of vineyards and bodegas that afternoon, and an all day one for Friday going up into the high mountains.

The bodegas tour turned out to be good, with 2 of them, including tastings, and an olive oil producer in between. We both felt unsure of the next day however, as it meant getting up at 6.30 am, having our bags packed to be stored in the hotel as we would not be back till 8.30pm and then catching a night bus again. Mad or what!! Next morning on the minibus we suddenly realised we were dressed for heat as it had been 40 c. the day before, and everyone else had jackets, boots and socks. EEk!!! Luckily our guide and driver took us back to the hotel to find our appropriate gear and set off again. Since we then encountered cold winds, fog and drizzel that was just as well.
Anyway it was a great trip. The first lot of mountains we went into, were up an unmade, narrow, mountain road known as "caracola" (the snail). Before long we found ourselves in low cloud and then more and more till nothing at all could be seen, with occasional places where large rocks had fallen in the road. Not getting the views was a bit disappointing for me. Once on the way down again we came out into sunshine on the road to Uspallata.

This was a green oasis where many plants and vegetables are grown. Each field is surrounded by huge poplars to protect the crops from wind. A stop for coffee and then on through a huge valley, known as the 7 colours, for the colour in the rocks. Beautiful! The road ran alongside the Rio Mendoza and an old railway, now disused. We stopped to take photos of Aconcagua, the highest mountain in the whole Andes chain, and topped with snow. Then the high spot of the tour which was the statue of Cristo Redentor at 4,300 meters. Our minibus among many others crawled up a great red track winding above the normal road to reach it. At the top the wind blew mightily and cold. Stunning views all around though. This statue was made and placed there to celebrate peace between Chile and Argentina and the opening of the tunnel which makes passage between the 2 so much easier.

We stopped to eat lunch on the way back, about 4.30 pm so were well ready for it. A feast with everything all in including wine and the best steak we have eaten on this trip. Now I think I am feeling quite barmy as we even consider another such trip for tomorrow..... leave you to Sue


Our farewell from Valparaiso was suitably mad,we watched a brilliant mime artist control the traffic at rush our,watched by the police,in front of a large crowd,we were all roaring with laughter.
The wine tasting was very informative,and we enjoyed the glug at the end.
Off we went next day feeling very tired,but soon woke up.The first part ,in the fog was ,for me,terryifying.I couldnt make up my mind whether it was better to see the drop or not.Scmehow we got back down,to my relief.The oasis that Ros mentioned was part of the inca road,,which they referred to as a place of peace and silence.The next stage,going up to the highest staue on earth,was a unknown thing for me ,because I am a heavy smoker I didnt know how the altitude would affect me.However,apart from a small pain in my ears,all was fine,so now I am thinking of the possibility of further journeys,bolivia,peru,sometime ahead.
The range of mountains are where the famous plane crash took place,when cannabalism took place in order for survival of some of the passengers,one of which managed to reach the argentinian army.The highest mountainsAconcagua,is -35 in summer,and-80 in winter.The mummiried remains of a ten year old boy were also found here,he was part of an Inca sacrifice.
We have been in volcano and earthquake country now for a while,have seen one or two doemant volcanoes.
looking forward to some live music tonight,it might wake me up a bit.
However,all thetiredness has been worthwhile to see,and be among the wonderful Andes.

ps from Ros: if there are any inaccuracies in any of this it is down to my poor translating skills from the rapid spanish of our guides.
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1 comment:

Anonymous said...

congratulations to you both on managing to write stuff that is still exciting to read, even though you have done so much and must be wiped out!

I have to say all that mountain and tunnel malarkey is making me feel a bit ill, even from the relatively safe height of my bedroom...