Tuesday, January 27, 2009

USHUAIA and EL GLACIER


Yesterday the weather took a dive and we had some rain, overcast skies and lower temperatures so took a museum day. All the museums have smallish displays on various of the indigenous groups which occupied the area until the white man arrived, whereupon they were fairly rapidly wiped out. They trod lightly on the earth, living very simply in shelters of wood, barks and skins. They hunted, fished and gathered. There is some interesting information in Bruce Chetwins "In Patagonia".

We went to the Museo del Fin del Mundo where there was also stuff on the early white visitors and settlers from Magellan onwards. Later I went to a very big museum set in the old prison buildings, partly a prison museum and partly the maritime museum with lots of info. on early maritime explorers, continuing with those who went into Antartica. The most interesting prisoner to me was an anarchist, who's name, shamefully, I have now lost. Will insert later.

Today being much brighter, though windy, we decided to take the chairlift up to the Glacier Martial above the town. Sue has a bit of vertigo, but swallowed her fears and bravely got into the seat at my side. Luckily it moved extremely slowly, rising above the trees at about 3cms per min. Finally we reached the top to be rewarded with stunning views of the bay and distant town.


Now its back to packing and preparing tomorrow's bus picnic - limited by not being able to take fruit, veg, animal or dairy products into Chile. However, we are excited about the move on to Punta Arenas and then Puerto Natales where hopefully we shall see Hamish and Gail.

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Ros the bloke is called Simon Radowitsky. Can't find a reference in English, but this link from El Clarín gives the back story for Spanish readers. www.clarin.com/diario/2006/05/22/conexiones/t-01199796.htm

In the meantime, now I have found out how to comment, all the best for your trip back north.It sounds deeply fab. Can't quite credit just how many kilometres you are clocking up between you. Have a couple of buckets of jealousy each!

Given this year is two centuries of Darwin's birth, I wonder whether anything is happening in Chile to mark the voyage? You are both practically in his footsteps.

Meanwhile back in pinched looking East London, I am mitigating the tediousness of work management stupidity by booking myself on a winter jolly involving staying in a snowhole in the Cairngorms for a couple of days. Luke, needless to say, is less overly excited at the prospect. I am going up on the sleeper - direct to Aviemore from Euston should make for a refreshing contrast in at least two senses of the word.

Big hugs from us both (disappears into cellar looking for wherever I've stashed my crampons...)

Steve X X X

Anonymous said...

Hi Sue & Ros - I am constantly amazed by the exciting and beautiful adventures you are both having! This blog site is wonderful and I know you will really enjoy looking back on it - something to treasure. Its' a sad time back here and I was hesitant as to whether to share this news but John Martyn died yesterday, the 29th Jan. No reason given at this stage but I am devastated. He was awarded an OBE in December - suspect he would have been secretly chuffed but wouldn't admit it! So in his words " I don't wanna know about evil, only wanna know about love" And my love to you both - you brave travellers!! Love and hugs, Sue B xxxxx

Anonymous said...

Can you tell me more stories about the maritime explorers when you get back to england please granny.

love from Oscar
xxx