CHILLY CHILE

Lots to catch up on, but yesterday was another of those "high excitement" days again, so i`ll start with that. We had not heard from Hamish, el Capitano, for a couple of days. We were filled with a fine mix of trepidation and anticipation since we had heard how difficult it was to navigate in the waters leading through the fjords (Chilean archipelago). The Seabourn Pride had not managed to get through these narrows and alongside here in the last 3 years. Would Hamish in his first trip as captain manage it??? WELL HE DID. In his own words it was a minor miracle as various factors were against him aside from the navigating and the strong winds.

Sue and I rushed down to the waterside at 8.15 am. and spotted a white glint in the far distance across the bay and against the background mountain. Could it be a ship? Run a bit nearer and get the binoculars out. Hmmm...yes, maybe it is. There was a good sign in the line of coaches parked nearby, obviously waiting to take the cruisers off on tours. Another look in the binocs. and yes, definitely. A bit of jumping up and down and shrieking. Fantastic! It was all going to take a while so we rushed away again to get our dirty washing to do on board, + bag of other things, and back. Phew, already almost alongside, so more jumping up and down and waving to make sure they knew we were there and waiting.

Finally we were on board and big hugs from Gail and Hamish and up to their (rather posh) cabin. They ordered a late breakfast of bacon and egg sarneys for us. What a treat. And plates full of fresh fruit. Yummy. Hamish was very tired from the long morning - beginning 2 a.m. for him and only tying up at 9.30 (he did have pilots on board of course). Also, it seems the whole fjords thing was quite gruelling as well as exciting. He described some parts as like shooting the rapids, and in one place they were rubbing alongside ice.


Even our day was not without some problem as Hamish had to take the ship out into the bay again, so Sue and I had to leave on the tender with Gail and go for lunch in town, instead of having it all on board. It was a lovely lunch tho. and great to hear all about everything from Gail, who had also taken us around the ship. When we got back to the jetty there was the ship still in the bay as the wind was up and now too rough to bring her back in. But we did go off in the tender again for a last hour or so with Hamish. A few hours later, when all the passengers were back on board and the tenders stowed, we finally stood in the freezing wind and waved goodbye. (I do hope Jason has a pic of the ship for us).

Sue: yesteday was brilliant,I was so pleased for Ros and very proud for her,for Hamish managing to bring the boat in.For the readers that dont know,Hamish is ros third son,and Gail is his new wife. We are now in Puerto Natales, having crossed into Chile three days ago.Weve been slumming it recently so We havw just booked into a better hotel as we are here for the next five days before sailing,ourselves,up the coast of Chile. I like buying weird things,and proudly bought back a rattle/bracelet,which Ros reckons is made from sheeps toenails or something,so I had to smuggle it, plus a penguin head skeleton, and a weird bone Ihad found,through the customs,into Chile, as everything organic is banned.

This week we will be visiting glaciers,caves,hopefully horse trekking,before we sail.Sue.b.The thermals are the best pressie ever.Hugs and kisses to all.

USHUAIA and EL GLACIER

Yesterday the weather took a dive and we had some rain, overcast skies and lower temperatures so took a museum day. All the museums have smallish displays on various of the indigenous groups which occupied the area until the white man arrived, whereupon they were fairly rapidly wiped out. They trod lightly on the earth, living very simply in shelters of wood, barks and skins. They hunted, fished and gathered. There is some interesting information in Bruce Chetwins "In Patagonia".

We went to the Museo del Fin del Mundo where there was also stuff on the early white visitors and settlers from Magellan onwards. Later I went to a very big museum set in the old prison buildings, partly a prison museum and partly the maritime museum with lots of info. on early maritime explorers, continuing with those who went into Antartica. The most interesting prisoner to me was an anarchist, who's name, shamefully, I have now lost. Will insert later.

Today being much brighter, though windy, we decided to take the chairlift up to the Glacier Martial above the town. Sue has a bit of vertigo, but swallowed her fears and bravely got into the seat at my side. Luckily it moved extremely slowly, rising above the trees at about 3cms per min. Finally we reached the top to be rewarded with stunning views of the bay and distant town.


Now its back to packing and preparing tomorrow's bus picnic - limited by not being able to take fruit, veg, animal or dairy products into Chile. However, we are excited about the move on to Punta Arenas and then Puerto Natales where hopefully we shall see Hamish and Gail.

SUE`S ARGENTINA

so farewell Argentina for a while,hello chile.Argentina was nothing like I imagined,although its a wealthy country there is a lot of poverty around.It is a vast country and very sparcely populated.The people have been lovely,and there are a few things that I forgot to mention,e.g.they have red phone boxes and post boxes exactly the same as ours,which is strange.Patagonia must be one of the last widerness left,miles and miles of savannah,which took us many days to cross.There hasnt been any rain for four months and many cattle are dying as a result.The situation is quite grave.We saw lots of pink flamingos in Patagonia,a bird I have always associated with Africa.Guanacos ,a sort of large alpaco survive there too,they were the main staple food for the yamana indians .Now we are at the end of the world,there is only about 4 hours darkness at night.All over argentina,around 6.pm.the dogs go walkabout.These are not street dogs,are wellcared for,and dont seem to fight.there are a lot of german shephards,all seem quite soppy.There are loads of young people taking a gap year and travelling from allover.We were invited to a hostel last night ,after having met up with travelling companions,who cooked for us.It is so great to see so many mationalities chatting and eating together,in harmony.All politicians should be made to go on the road.

THE END OF THE WORLD !

Here we are at last. This evening it still felt a bit unbelievable as we wandered along beside the Beagle Channel looking at the shipping against a glorious background of pointy, snowy splodged mountains. This, of course, is Ushuaia. Southernmost city of Argentina and of anywhere.

We arrived Friday night after 14 hours on the bus, with 4 sets of boundaries and passport checks, with all the queueing and bureaucracy, as we passed from Arg. into Chile, and then back again. This was punctuated by an exciting, though short, ferry crossing as we went across the Straits of Magellan to the island of Tierra del Fuego.


Arriving at 10.30 pm when we had thought it would be 6.00, with no accommodation sorted, we made straight up into town (and up means up steep hills) dragging our trolleys, to a house suggested in my out-of-date guidebook, to find it closed down. So we finished up in a hostel dorm with a couple of strange blokes (don't know what they thought of our invasion).
But alls well that ends well and next morning we found this nice little B&B, which is very friendly as well as cheap and comfortable. Sue will now continue the story....

Actually the little house is a hippie house with joss sticks and a laid back feeling. So its good. Today Ros and I went on a 8k.walk through tierra del fuego national park. This was pretty ardous for me as it was through a beech forest, up and down. Have you ever tried to negotiate beech tree roots,wearing new varifocals.

Crazy,I am completely knackered,needless to say ros is as fresh as a daisy and we even had to take a walk this evening. Anyway, despite all the keep fit, I am so glad to be here.It beats housework anyday. However we saw some great birds of prey, and the forest felt very primevil, very Tolkein. Tomorrow apparently we are visiting an old penal colony, variety being the spice of life and who knows what else so i am off to bed.xx

RESTING IN RIO GALLEGOS

We arrived here exhausted at 7.30 yesterday morning and had a very chilled day catching up on food, sleep and washing of all kinds. Reason for this being a totally fantastic day on Tuesday 20th (also coinciding with lovely granddaughter georgia's 16th - congratualtions darling, and of course the world celebrated Obama inauguration, which we have since been trying to catch up on.)


The fantastic 20th for us consisted of an almost all day boat trip up the Ria Deseado in a sort of rubber dingy with motor and 10 other passengers, + driver and guide. The sun shone from first thing and a light wind blowing and off we set with our life jackets on and water/windproof jackets. First we saw birds, these were of various water and seabird, but most moving for me certainly was the albatross, with huge wings in a great arc. This was the blackwinged albatross, I think. We arrived at a little rock of an island then, heaving with sealions. They looked quite tawny in the sun, except for the ones emerging from the water, which were black. Amongst them were a number of enormous males, magnificent with their huge shaggy manes and wonderful mannerisms. Also they had great bellowing voices, and each seemed surrounded by an adoring harem.

The final place of the expedition was another larger island where the penguins nest and breed. First we had to get ashore which was quite a feat from a rocking boat onto slippery rocks. All managed safely. The island was the highlight as we were able to spend hours just sitting amongst the lovely rockhopper penguins, with their red eyes and little yellow eyebrows sticking out. Made several vids on the camera kids, so fun when we get back.


However, the adventure was not quite over, as we all had to get back into the boat and the wind had really kicked in. The boat was anchored a little way off and our boatman had to fetch it by canoe, clever fellow. In it came and we were all tightly gathered under strict instructions to get on a fast as possible. Some made it, Sue being the last, who went, partly flying, as the boat parted from the rocks. She was in safe hands thankfully, of a couple of strong blokes who had proceeded. But the rest of us (me, 3 men and the guide) then had to go at great speed back across the island to a slightly calmer cove to await the boat again.

All aboard and off we roar. Look after your bags was yelled at us, as a few people were foolishly fumbling for cameras. Whoosh went the wind and the boat and the first set of waves came aboard! This was total adrenalin for all. White knuckled and screaming we continued for what seemed at least half an hour. Wow!! One of the Latvian lads in the group rated it the most exciting experience of his life. And i think many of us agreed this was close at least.


Sue says:what a day that was. I had a close shave especially as i cant swim, but loved every moment, probably the closest I will ever get to white water rafting. The climate and terrain is rapidly changing now as we approach the end of the world. Windy, cooler and many trees and vegetation like northern europe. Most of the houses are made of corrugated iron and brightly painted,and there are many more indigenous people here. The young people here are also different,a mixture of punk and goth which is interesting. We have been travelling with Shannon, a young irish girl and Anne, a swiss girl. We parted company yesterday, so girls, if you get to read this and we dont meet up again, it was great fun to be with you both. Sue b. well done.

love from Sue.xxx

SUE`S EMAIL

I haven't been able to get into Virgin bloody media for the last week, so if anyone has sent me any emails could they please now use the comment spot on the blog until I manage to get into my website. We are meeting up with other backpackers now, Latvians, Israelis and are travelling together currently with a Swiss and an Irish girl.

We are now in Puerto Deseado, but nothing exciting yet. We will do a trip tomorrow to see sea creatures and a different kind of penguin - rockhoppers. They are in the pic which is in our last blog. The ones we have seen already (yawn...sorry) are Magellanic.

PENGUINS AT LAST (by accident)

We have been busy again. One last day in Buenos Aires in which we went into the richer northern part to investigate the cemetary where Evita lies, in a relatively modest family tomb, compared with many others there.

We also managed more art, at the Museum of Modern Latin American Art, with work from the best of all over the continent. Cool building too.


The overnight bus then brought us on a 17 hour journey south to Puerto Madryn, in Patagonia. We felt very confused for about 24 hours after all that, but a nice place to be in right on the sea. It is also much colder, especially evenings and early morning, finally beginning to justify the ton of thermals and other winter wear we have lugged with us.

Yesterday, we went to Wales (Gales in the Spanish language). Very quaint and greener than other parts so far.
But best of all we took a taxi to some fossil beds which are over 40 million yrs. old. We arrived to find the place deserted, with staff gone to lunch. No matter, it was most enjoyable to wander by ourselves in the silence of the hills. The trail was well marked so we didn't get lost and saw all sorts of interested remains, including of a penguin, from many millions of years ago. Awe inspiring. What a planet!
Today, we got picked up by the wrong minibus, and thus ended up amongst thousands of penguins, rather than orcas, whales and other sea creatures. It was wonderful though, especially when Sue got all feisty with them at the office and managed to get our money back!!


Sue says:this blog should be called ros wandering south with sue blundering on behind,the womans a genius at map reading which is just as well as I havent a clue. The last bus trip from buenos aries was different to say the least. For a start we all had to play bingo, and dinner was mashed potato and pink blancmange...The penguins were delightful and hilarious, they make a sound like a donkey. Also saw An armadillo, guinea pigs, short eared hares, emus and babies and guanaco which are a member of the llama family, so wildlife at last.

Yes, the fleeces have come out of the bag, the nights are getting shorter, and you all feel a long way away. Anybody who is having problems sending a comment, please go to Fenellas comment on the porto allegre blog as she gives instructions. Off for a nice argentinian merlot now.xxxx

BUENOS AIRES

Hi everyone, lots of computer probs. at the moment, so hope its going ok now!
Today we have been almost all day walking about this fantastic and exciting city. We went to the Plaza 25 Mayo and first saw the huge, pink, government building.

Then wandering further down the square we saw that the second half was virtually fenced off. This is the area of political protest, and most especially the place where the Mothers of the Disappeared do their march every Thursday. These are the mothers of children who disappeared during the Dirty War of the 1970's. There are also many other disappeared and murdered ones (by the police) who are commemorated in this space.


In the same place there is a permanent encampment of veterans of the Malvinas/Falklands War of 1982. These are protesting at the neglectful way they have been treated ever since by all ensuing governments.


After all that we lightened up a bit by walking several k into the San Telmo and La Boca districts. Lots of stops along the way to look at antiques and bricabrac on stalls and shops. Finally the huge Boca Juniors Football stadium appeared. This is Maradona's club and the place of great Argentinian footballing passion.

In the same area are the pretty painted houses of La Boca - really a very old, run down, poor port area. This little corner has been done up and turned into a tourist trap. Nice though, with tango going on in the street outside various restaurants.

Wearily we came back on the bus.............. now for Sue:

This morning was very sobering and sad.We stopped and spoke to the veterans and said we were English,I think they were pleased that we spoke to them.I felt very emotional about the war.Now we are totally tangoed out and looking forward to travelling on to pastures new.xxx

Sue's Notes

Loved montevideo, tatty, faded and alternative, lots of young people wondering around with long hair, teashirts with Hendrix or the Doors on them.I couldnt make out if they are into retro or in a time warp, the latter I expect. The sunset and fullmoon were a magic moment, so were the indian band we watched. We are getting strange looks from some people , we seem to be the only ancient backpackers around. Really looking forward to the next step, going south towards the wildlife I have always dreamed of seeing. Robbie,we havent reached the penguins yet but we will let you know when we do. Soon,we may be as cold as you lot, cant wait to see us both in our thermals.xxxx

Other notes

We are experimenting in using a computer each today!
Our stay in Uruguay was great. Alejandro, our couchsurfing host, was kindness itself. He whizzed us all over the place straight after picking us up at the bus station on the Friday evening, explaining about buildings, monuments and lots of Uruguayan history. We went to see the sunset over the river too, with Full Moon coming up opposite. Saturday we wandered about by ourselves and especially enjoyed the old port market place, full of wrought iron and a wonderful old clock. Sue has the pics as stupidly i had left my camera behind.
Now we are in Buenas Aires. Our momentum amazes even us...

At 9.30 we were in the port of Colonia (lovely sleepy place, where there are no traffic lights and the cars just stop and wave you on as soon as you step out into the road) ready to board the catamaran ferry.


Then whoosh, a couple of hours later, through all the border controls and over the Rio de la Plata, and here we are. Still very hot of course. They and Uruguay are experiencing quite a bad drought at the moment. We haven't seen the tango here yet but are going to go looking as soon as we've finished here.

URUGUAY

Sue says: arrived in Montevideo this morning, hot and tired but glad to have left the humidity of
Brazil behind. We've got into the rhythm of buying the next lot of tickets at the bus station, putting our luggage into the left luggage office, going to tourist info. for a map and usually making for a beach or park to find our bearings. So today we took our first look at the Rio de la Plata, where we were serenaded by some sweet Paraguayan travellers. We stopped for a huge pizza, which we could only eat half of, and some street kids came along and saved us the embarrassment. Tonight we are couchsurfing for the first time. Love to all. xxxx


I`ve dreamt of the Rio de la Plata so long, and it is marvellous to see. In fact looks big as the sea as you cannot see across it. The people we have so far met, as we muddle our way along, have all been very kind.
By the way, the artist we saw in the main exhibition yesterday is www.carlosvergara.art.br and we both thought his huge canvases were pretty amazing. Please keep the comments coming as we do enjoy hearing from you.

Porto Alegre

Big thanks to Jason for putting on great pics for us. We both appreciate! We have been exploring and went into Art Museum, followed by trip in a boat all round some islands in the lake around here.
Sue says: we seem to have been staying in hotels in the red light areas, but no takers as yet. We also ended up in a Gasometer, which is a first. I hit a hippy market and bought some useless objects and tonight we journey all night to Uruguay. Lets hope they let us in.

Ros again: we say goodbye to Brasil for the time being. It has changed since either of us were last here, for Sue only 2 yrs. and for me 13. From where we have been considerably less obvious poverty - so things are either a little better for the poor, or they are being more efficiently kept off the streets. Also a definite increase in middle class consumerism. As we go down into Uruguay it is going to all be new for both of us.

On a little train to Morretes

Today we did this train. The ride was wonderful, through lush rainforest with the rail line passing very high above it all. The only prob. was lots of drizzely rain and mist, so some of the pics are just that! Promise to put some on Thursday when we shall be in Porto Alegre for the day. We are both enjoying being on the road, with all the excitement and lost and found feelings.

Sue says: This train ride is supposed to be the most spectacular in South America. It certainly took my breath away. We've been based in Curitiba which is the most environmentally friendly city in Brazil. It's certainly very clean. We found a great bar with live music last night and they do a jolly good capoerinha, so its back there for another one or two in a minute.


Ros: also on Curitiba .... the city is full of great orange bendy buses, and little white ones. But best of all are the bus stops! Anyone interested in finding out more about this great city should look at the following - Curitiba: A Global Model for Development by Bill McKibben. Inspirational.

Curitiba

Here we are on the first stop south..... feels like an achievement. the bus journey was looooonnggg. we are now both pretty tired and yawning all over the place. BUT have managed to buy train tickets for trip to almost paranagua as well as onward bus the next day to porto alegre. More interesting tomorrow.

Leaving Rio

This is the last from Rio til we return in March. Its been kind of lazy and good, with the trip to the country, christmas, new year and all providing the spice. We have been looking after pets this last week, a lovely laid-back dog and completely bonkers cat, who escaped from the flat twice. Once it went down the rubbish chute, and the 2nd time was found in a car engine in the garage below.
Now we are packed and ready to go. Curitiba here we come! R

Sue says: So we leave rio, the cidade maraveillosa?? tonight. For me its a city of extremes, wealth and poverty handin hand. A city where the skimpiest bikinis are everywhere, but going topless is against the law. A city where street dogs hunt for food and pampered pedigree dogs wear shoes and even sunglasses. A city where the shanty towns have the best views in town of the beaches and surrounding islands. Favelas where tourists are shown round and guarded by drug vigilantes with machine guns. Bizarre! Copacabana is officially the most densly populated place on the planet and on its 4-mile beach booths on the sidewalk spray water on passers-by and street children sniff glue. Brazil has all the resources, space they need to believe in their future and they are all very proud of their country. And who can resist the drums, the samba, and that latin vivaciousness which is all around.

New Year

We spent new year´s eve on copacabana beach with 2M people, halfM police, and watched 24 tons of fireworks at midnight for 20 mins. Spectacular!! Moored in front of us, but behind the fireworks barges, were 7 cruise ships, lights ablaze, a sight in themselves. Most people, including ourselves, were wearing white. This is originally a festival of Iemanja, goddess of the sea, from West Africa. Little boats, paper, are launched with flowers and other offerings. These days most people just cast a few flowers into the water, but we did see the launch of one little boat. At midnight everyone walked into the sea to jump an obligatory 7 waves, and get their clothes wet. So we should have a lucky and blessed year, we hope.
Also that morning Roman and I went for an early morning dip in the sea, where already many offerings had been made.
Sue says:
As a party animal I can now claim to have been to the biggest party on the planet. It is now very
hot and sticky, and i have had a squiffy tummy but its better to get that out of the way, before we go off on the road. Its lovely to hear from home and get your comments. Keep them coming.

Needless to say, a very happy, healthy and prosperous New Year to all friends and rellys, and lots of love from us both xxxxxxxxxxxx